GRAPPA

 Let’s talk about a by-product of wine, Grappa! 

Technically we call grappa a distilled liquor or spirit.  A very high-octane (in taste, not necessarily higher in Alc %) spirit but kind of fun and unique.

 

Grappa is made by taking all the remaining elements of the wine making process, the skins, stems, and unused juice and then distilling those things into alcohol.  (photo above)

 

Now a little history.

For many years, most of the vineyards were owned by wealthy property owners and had people working for them in the fields and in the cellars.  Particularly in southern Italy where there wasn’t much industrial work.

 

The story goes like this.  Once the harvest was complete and the wines were in barrels or bottles, the owners would take all that was left of the winemaking process and distill this into a liquor that would keep the workers happy while they lived poorly.  The owners would allow the workers to enjoy this drink as a benefit for working for the owner. 

 

This spirit was given the name, Grappa! 

 

 

 

 

My first experience with Grappa came to me many years ago when I was sitting at a bar with my boss at an Italian restaurant near the office.  I saw this clear bottle with a whole pear inside a clear liquid. I was intrigued.

 

The owner of the place told me it was Grappa.  He explained to me what grappa was and how the whole pear got inside a seamless bottle.  Basically, the bottles are tied to the pear tree when the blossom appears.  Thus, you have fruit trees with clear glass bottles hanging on the limbs for as long as it takes for the fruit to grow inside. 

 

They would add the grappa spirit in the bottle with the fruit inside.  The grappa would take on the essence of the fruit inside the bottle.  He then poured me a little and when I sipped it, I thought I was drinking firewater!  He had a good laugh with my reaction.  I am sure the face I made after that sip was priceless.

 

Even though grappa has been made for centuries, it really didn’t become a thing or exportable product from Italy until the 70’s.  Science found that grappa aided in the digestion of the meal.  The peasant drink was now an upscale digestivo. 

 

Several families started producing single varietal grappas like Nebbiolo or Moscato.  To aid in creating an awareness of the product, one producer packaged their grappa in designer glass bottles in various sizes and shapes.  There were even “Grappa Bars” opening in New York City.

 

Grappa is not a delicate liquor.  I think it’s safe to say it is an acquired taste.  I think it would be quite challenging to sip grappa and be able to decern the subtle differences between the different varietals.  It would take quite a bit of tasting to notice the nuances.

 

Some people describe grappa as Italian brandy.  It is a distilled product made from fruit (grapes) and all the parts (stems, seeds, used skins) but there isn’t much sweetness to it.  I don’t think that is an accurate label.

 

The modernization of grappa includes pomace from specific vineyard sites and the use of barrel aging.  If the distiller has the money and patience to barrel age their product for years, the resulting product can pay dividends upon the release of the grappa to the world.  Of course, the type and age of wood are influences in the resulting grappa, just as in scotch whiskey.

 

I feel grappa has mellowed some over the past 30 years.  They seem to me to be more refined and not as brash.  The Moscato grappa has a bit of sweetness in it.  I think this is a great entry grappa for the first time grappa experience.

 

Since grappa is a digestive, it is generally a drink for after dinner.  This is a product you would sip small amounts by itself.  No mixing necessary, but can be added to coffee, espresso, or Cappuccino to calm down the alcohol.

 

For me personally, grappa has grown on me and is more pleasant than when I first started drinking it.  A good Italian restaurant should have at least one or two Grappas available for you to try.  The key here is to sip, not gulp or shoot it!

 

Grappa is priced similarly to Scotch.  Jacopo Poli is a grappa producer of luxury grappa’s, in attractive bottles.  Marolo is another producer with a wide range of grappas at moderate prices.

I recommend you try some grappa soon.  It is an unique experience all lovers of Italian food & wine should have.