BOLGHERI
BOLGHERI DOC-
Back to Tuscany we go to the small but mighty Bolgheri DOC. Bolgheri is straight west of Montalcino and lies just off the Tuscan coast.
Bolgheri’s 3300 acres of vineyards produce about 519,000 cases of wine a year, of which 81% is red.
What is most interesting is the primary grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah & lastly, Sangiovese. Cabernet is King in Bolgheri!
I think it is very interesting how Sangiovese, Tuscany’s main red grape, is not a factor in this area. Part of the issue is Sangiovese isn’t the best grape for this terrior or wine growing area.
Another part of the issue is this area doesn’t have the confines of history and tradition.
Much of this area was swamp land and not good for growing any grapes. They drained the swamp and created their own style of wine. It was also time to working with new varietals like Cabernet & Merlot.
In my personal opinion, I think there was some research done on how Bordeaux came to be the powerhouse it is in the wine world. This knowledge gave them the vision to concentrate on Cab Sauv. & Merlot.
There are some parallels between the two. Both drained their swamps, both are near the ocean and have the coastal climate, both have found Cabernet & Merlot to excel in this type of soil, and both are creating some of the best wines in the world.
Bolgheri’s wine production is a very small fraction of what is produced in Bordeaux but the mindset and quality results have some similarities. Maybe I should write the growers a letter to see if my theory is true!
There are two wineries that really set the bar very high and put Bolgheri on the world wine map-
--Tenuta San Guido’s -Sassicaia (mostly Cabernet Sauvignon)
--Tenuta Dell’Ornellaia’s- Masseto (100% Merlot).
I had the pleasure of tasting the Sassicaia a few times and Ornellaia’s Bolgheri Rosso, but not the Masseto. The wines are expensive.
I tasted a 1988 Sassicaia and it was fantastic, one of the best wines I have ever tasted. 1988 was a fabulous year for Italian wines so that made it that more special, I think.
Those that have had the pleasure of tasting these wines know what great wines they are. Whether or not they deserve the price and the accolades, well that is up to the individuals drinking it.
My point is these wines became synonymous with exquisite taste and elegance. Their reputation for making excellent wine went worldwide.
So great was the reputation of Sassicaia that the Italian wine government made Sassicaia its own DOC. They were in Bolgheri DOC but now they are Sassicaia DOC. This is the first and only time a winery received the DOC classification.
This fame gave the rise to the term “Super Tuscan”. This term was invented by the wine press to separate these wines from the Chainti’s and the Brunellos’s that Tuscany was famous for.
The rules for Bolgheri DOC did not include a minimum of Sangiovese in the wine mix. There was allowance for these international grapes and no minimums of the local varietals.
This provides a lot of freedom in making wine. Some of the producers came to the area to experiment and express themselves through these untraditional methods.
Super Tuscan term meant these wines from Tuscany were stronger and robust than the Sangiovese based wines.
They were more tannic, and more appealing to the international wine drinkers. Usually, the main grape was Cabernet Sauvignon.
Many of these “Super Tuscans” would fall under the IGT or IGP or Vino de Tavola designations instead of a DOC or DOCG.
More freedom of expression and less rules in the IGT or IGP labels compared to the DOC's.
There are many producers that are making wine in Bolgheri and surrounding coastal areas.
Not all of these wines cost several hundreds of dollars either. Some can be acquired for around $25 and go up from there.
Sassicaia and Masseto are on the top end of the price spectrum.
One might ask “how do I know if this wine contains those international varietals?”
Really good question.
Some producers will put the varietals on the label, but some will not.
You might have to do an internet search of the name of the wine and if you get their website, it will probably tell you the grapes.
I can only speculate on why there isn’t more varietal information on the labels and my thoughts are the emphasis is more about where the wine comes from rather than what the grapes are.
Hopefully, you can know that if your tastes run more towards big Cabernet Sauvginons, you should seek out the Tuscan reds from Bolgheri.
I still feel they will not be as bold as California Cab Sauv. but you will get all the other components.
The regular Rosso designation requires 10 months aging before release. For Superiore, the wine must be aged 2 years, of which 1 year must be in oak barrels.
The quality of these wines is outstanding!
Food Pairings:
Full flavored, hearty foods are the best match for the red wines of Bolgheri. Even if there is little or no Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, the wines are still full bodied and strong flavored.
Roasted poultry would work but beef in all forms is where the food and wine would shine! Lamb & game meat will be excellent too!
Osso Buco would be heavenly. Hearty stews & hearty sauces on pasta will be good.
Just remember strong hearty flavored foods with these wines.
Bolgheri Whites-
The white wines from Bolgheri are delicious. Made primarily from Vermentino & Sauvignon Blanc, these wines are firm, citrusy, and very food friendly.
We have talked about Vermentino before as it is the main white grape of Sardinia, but as I mentioned in that piece, Tuscany coastal soils and Vermentino make a very good white wine.
The Sauvignon Blancs from here are more lemon-limey & herbal rather than the typical grapefruit flavors of Sauvignon Blanc from other parts of the world.
These wines have a bright acidity & balance, yet the herbal tones create more layers of flavor.
These whites tend to cost more than their cousins in Chile, New Zealand, and California but these wines are beautiful and worth every penny spent on them. Pricing starts in the low $20’s and goes up.
Bolgheri whites are excellent wines to start the meal, or a great wine for the “I only drink white wine” person at the party.
Food Pairings:
Medium to full-bodied flavored foods work best with this medium-bodied wine.
Being on the coast, seafood is a great pairing with the whites of Bolgheri.
Poultry, vegetables, & hearty salads will also work nicely together.
Appetizer platter and the whites of Bolgheri are a great idea!
