BARDOLINO, LUGANA & VERDUZZO
LUGANA DOC-
The Lugana region encompasses part of eastern Lombardia and the western edge of Veneto, not far from Lake Garda which is Italy’s largest lake.
Here is another rare exception of a DOC comprised of two different wine regions.
Most of the 1.4 million cases of wine a year produced (95%) is dry and white.
It’s popularity mostly from other European countries thus most of it is exported.
For those of you that need a grape to relate to, I will try to eliminate the confusion.
Officially, the grape is known at Trebbiano di Soave. It is also known as Trebbiano di Lugana. We have talked about Trebbiano in previous articles and we know that it is a white grape that is planted in many regions throughout Italy.
Because of the soil, climate, and DOC rules the Trebbiano grape takes on a different style and nuance from wherever it is planted. This regional expression provides another delicious wine to explore and enjoy.
And yet, there is still some confusion in the naming of the white wine from Lugana.
Genetic studies show it is the same grape as Verdicchio. Verdicchio is the white grape of the Marche region to the south. Regional pride kicks in so Verdicchio will not do.
Apparently, the growers don’t want it to be known as Trebbiano either as it can be confusing. (they weren’t kidding either) The solution to many is using the regional historical name of Turbiana as the grape of Lugana.
By whatever name you want to call it, Lugana DOC is delicious.
It does have some strong acidity, minerality, floral aromas and citrus flavors. The wines can be aged, and for the different levels of Riserva or Superiore, they must age from 1 to 2 years.
A good generalization is any label with Riserva or Superiore from Italy equates to additional aging of the wine before release to consumers.
The bulk of Lugana is produced in the Lombardia side.
There are many producers in this region and of course each has their own style, but the differences are minimal.
This is another example of the versatility of the many styles of Trebbiano.
Food Pairing:
The brightness and acidity of the wine is a natural with seafood. Poultry and pork, are delicious companions too! Lighter to medium cheeses, appetizers and olive oil would be great.
BARDOLINO DOC-
Bardolino is the perfect red wine for the person who is not comfortable drinking red wine yet but wants to start. Sort of the Italian version of Beaujolais from France.
There are little to no tannins, good fruit flavors, smooth and easy going down the throat. Nothing harsh here, just good fruit and not sweet.
Bardolino is a town north of Lugana on the border of Lombardia and near Lake Garda. The grapes in Bardolino are the same grapes in Valpolicella; Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara and Corvinone.
Bardolino tends to be lighter bodied and smoother drinking than Valpolicella.
The 2020 vintage of Bardolino is the first to label 3 distinct sub-regions within Bardolino; La Rocca, Montebaldo, & Sommacampagna.
These areas also require a minimum of 1 year aging of these wines before release.
Patterned after the “crus” of France, these sub-regions reflect the distinct characteristics of each particular area. Some of the differences can be subtle and some not so subtle.
The true unfolding of the differences is done through tasting them side by side.
Here is a fun experience. Buy a bottle of Valpoliciella, (not Superiore) a bottle of Bardolino and a bottle of one of the three subzones previously mentioned. Taste them side by side.
Of course, I recommend you have some people over to share this experience so that each can share their individual opinions about the differences and similarities (if any).
It’s another wonderful thing about tasting wine. It is an individual experience. There are no good or bad things, just differences.
I expect a full report of your findings and pictures of the fun!
Bardolino is readily available as they produce about 2.2 million cases of wine a year. Lower in alcohol, and bright dark fruit make it a very popular wine.
It is a value priced wine that can be enjoyed by all.There is a Bardolino Superior DOCG region that is considerably smaller in size and the wines must age for at least one year.
Enjoy with roasted poultry, hamburgers, pizza, pastas, oily fish, medium cheeses & mozzarella caprese. I think it would be nice with hearty soups too!
Verduzzo
Here is a white grape that can be dry, semi-sweet, or sweet. It can be quite viscous, gold in color and smell sweet.
There is balance acidity no matter what style.
The best way to check the sweetness level is to look at the alcohol content. If it is10% or lower, it will be sweet, and 12% or above will be dry.
Having said that about alcohol levels reflecting the dryness of the wine, this is not an absolute in all cases.
If a grape is dried out over time, the water in the grapes evaporate but the sugars remain and are concentrated.
The results of fermentation could put the alcohol level at 13% but still have a sweetness to the wine because there were extra sugars in the juice.
The small region of Ramandolo DOC produces an excellent sweeter version of Verduzzo. It is an area that has a good quality reputation. Its color and viscosity reminds one of Vin Santo. Flavors of dried apricots, honey and some nuttiness.
The Friuli Colli Orientali Cialla Verduzzo Friulano DOC (Wow, what a mouthful) is a smaller area where the Verduzzo grape is the star. Cialla is the city near the vineyards, and Verduzzo Friulano is the name of the grape varietal.
Basically, this is a sub zone of the Friuli Colli Orientali region. In this zone, 85% of wine must be Verduzzo.
The wines from here are considered “dry” as a rule, but again, some can be “dry” in style but have some sweetness to it.
This sweetness is more a ripe fruitiness rather than sugary sweet. The harsh bitterness associated with “dry” wines is gone.
This region requires a minimum of 2 yrs. aging before release. The Riserva is barrel aged and must age for 4 years.
Verduzzo can be used in Bianco labeled wines in Friuli and Veneto. It’s flavors of apricot & honey, with its fuller body & tannins not only makes a great blending grape but produces a delicious wine all by itself.
There is the potential to get both ends of the spectrum, sweet & dry wines, but neither are extreme in either style. I think it would be fun to have the 2 styles together to taste and compare.
There are some producers that do us a favor by labeling the sweet wines as either “dolce” or “passito”. With that on the label you are getting the sweeter style.
Verduzzo is a fun wine to drink. There isn’t a ton of it available in the USA but there is some. Find this gem and enjoy another delicious white wine from Italy.
