Lombardy- Valtellina
VALTELLINA
This is our first venture into the Lombardy region of Italy. It’s capital city is Milan. Lombardy is the financial and industrial capital of Italy.
Wine in Lombardy isn’t as important as it is in other regions, but it doesn’t mean they don’t have some excellent wines.
This region is famous for sparkling wines, like Franciacorta. Most of the production goes to the locals, leaving small amounts for export.
Fortunately, they export Valtellina wine. There are 3 regions that produce Valtellina; Rosso di Valtellina DOC. Valtellina Superiore DOCG and Sforzato di Valtellina.
In my 30 years in the wine trade, I was not aware of Valtellina or of how wonderful the wine was. It was only about 2 years ago I was introduced to it and it was love at first sip!
The grape of Valtellina is Nebbiolo. In this region, it is known by the locals as Chiavennasca, which is quite a mouthful. For our purposes, we will use Nebbiolo.
Valtellina (val-tee-leen-a) sits in a “valley surrounded by high mountains” as Leonardo da Vinci was quoted as saying.
The views are spectacular, the fields are mostly rock wall terraced, and it is amazing they can grow grapes there at the foot of the Alps.
The vines grow in the rocky soil and take on more minerality in the grapes. There are so many different types of microclimates throughout the region that each wine has its subtle differences.
Because of the east-west running valleys, there are greater southern exposures of the vines. This allows the grapes to ripen and stay alive through the winter.
The proximity of Italy’s 3rd largest lake, Lake Como, has a positive influence on the region too!
These wines are leaner and more mineral than the Piedmont cousin. Yes, there are many similarities between the two regions, and yet each has its own distinct qualities.
ROSSO DI VALTELLINA DOC-
Rosso di Valtellina DOC produces 55,600 cases of wine a year.
The DOC requires a minimum of 6 months of aging before release. At least 90% of the wine must be Nebbiolo grapes, leaving a small opening for other approved grapes if they want.
I had the recent pleasure of opening a bottle of 2016 Dirupi- Rosso di Valtellina in my home and I am happy to report, the wines are still delicious.
There was bright cherry fruit, a little bit of dried cranberry, some minerality, medium bodied, dry, with a smooth, full-flavored finish. For around $25, this was a big-time value wine.
Food Pairing:
So many opportunities here with pairing food to this wine.
Any medium flavored food will work.
Alpine cheeses, cheddar, poultry, pizza, risotto, and truffles.
Some oily fish like salmon or tuna without a lemon bath or fish stew (cioppino) should be nice and tasty with this wine.
VALTELLINA SUPERIORE DOCG
Valtellina Superiore DOCG- is the largest producer of wine in Valtellina with 150,000 cases a year from approx. 800 acres of vines.
To bear the DOCG label, the wines must age a minimum of 2 years with at least 1 yr. in barrel.
As in most regions, they have a “Riserva” classification, and that requires 3 yrs aging of which 1 year must be in barrel.
Superiore is 25 mile long region with 5 subzones that provide their individual nuances to the wine.
Valtellina Superiore DOCG is also delicious to drink.
The extra aging brings out more character in the wine as well making it smooth and harmonious.
This is another surprisingly delicious wine that makes one contemplate the fine things in life.
Food Pairing-
This wine pairs well with robust full-flavored foods like beef, roasted chicken, game, alpine and aged cheeses and pasta, polenta or risotto with their various sauces.
Sforzato Valtellina DOCG-
The third area is Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG.
This is much smaller area with only 205 acres that produces 25,000 cases of wine a year.
What seperates Sforzato from the other areas is they dry out the grapes similar to what they do in Veneto with Amarone wines.
The requirements here in Sforzato are-
(1) the wine must be at least 14% alc.
(2) they can’t vinify the grapes until Dec 1st. and
(3) there is a minimum of 20 months aging of which 1 year must be in barrel.
Longer aging creates more character in the wine, which accelerates the flavors and makes for an amazing wine experience!
The process of how this wine is developed allows for even longer aging potential.
In my readings, 10 years is not that uncommon and as with Amarone, can age for many, many years.
Drying out the grapes is usually done by harvesting the grapes and placing them on shelves or baskets in a heavily ventilated building over a period of time.
Not only is this a lengthy process, but it also reduces the volume of wine through evaporation. In some cases, 30 to 40% loss of volume.
Depending on the length of time needed to get the grapes to 14% alc. would determine the amount of juice available to make the wine.
Since this is all they do in Sforzato, they have it down to a science.
Considering all the factors involved in producing this wine, you can figure buying one would start around $50 depending what part of the country you’re in.
As is common with small production wines, there is less to export. Finding these wines could be a challenge.
Should you find one on your travels, I encourage you to purchase and enjoy this wine.
I know I will be seeking out the Sforzato di Valtellina DOCG wines.
Food Pairing:
This robust, high-alcohol wine is best with full-flavored foods like game, beef, aged cheeses, and stews.
