Trentino / Alto Adige

 

 

Sandwiched between Lombardia and Veneto regions is the bilingual region of Trentino-Alto Adige/Sudtirol.  This region is the farthest north of all Italian regions and lies at the foot of the Alps.  This area is also the home of the picturesque Dolomites.  You will get a glimpse of some of the beauty in this writing.

 

On the other side of the Alps to the north is Austria, and the language there is German.  If you studied any European history you will know that most wars are fought over land and creating empires.  For hundreds of years this border has changed back and forth between the different governments.

 

I view this as a compromise of sorts buy letting both languages (Italian & German) exist in this Italian region.  Trentino/Alto Adige is Italian. Sudtirol is the Austrian (German) word for Alto AdigeTrentino is in the southern part and Alto Adige/Sudtirol is in the northern part of the region.

 

Wines from Alto Adige/Sudtirol can have both the Italian & German name of the grape on the label. 

 

Many of the producers from this area have German names like Hofstatter or Tiefenbrunner.

Wines from this region may also have the German & the Italian names of the grapes such as, Pinot Nero & Spatburgunder on the label, or Pinot Blanc & Weissburgunder.

 

When I learned about the region and the closeness to Alps, I wondered how grapes could grow so close to the Alps.  The grapes are grown in the valleys and most of fields have a southern exposure to take advantage of all the sun’s warmth and light.

 

Grapes would have to be more cold hearty varietals too.  It is a shorter growing season, so late ripening grapes like Cabernet would be a huge challenge to get ripe before cold weather. 

 

The other thing is, these valleys are at a lower altitude, even if at the base of these high mountains.

 

 

TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO DOC

 

One of the red grapes that does well in this area is Teroldego

 

Scientists say Teroldego is related to Pinot Noir & Syrah.  At one time, this grape and the wine made from it was considered a wine of great value.  There are records going back to the 1400’s of its notoriety in the area.

 

For whatever reason, some vines were replaced with other varietals and what was being produced was a lighter simpler wine.

 

Elizabetta Foradori is one producer that saw far greater potential for the grape and began to plant a different clone from her vines. 

 

Her holistic approach to farming, both organically and biodynamically, and her use of clay amphora, generated outstanding wines that are full flavored, rich & elegant.

 

She is regarded as the “Queen of Teroldego” by many in the trade for her work in bringing this local grape to the forefront and out of obscurity. 

 

 

 

 

Teroldego Rotaliano DOC is the largest Teroldego producing DOC.  It is comprised of 1074 acres of vines that produce 373,900 cases of wine a year. 

 

Sounds like a lot of wine, but to supply the wine world and the locals, that isn’t a lot. 

 

Teroldego can be spicy, with cranberry, cherry fruit, soft & velvety in the finish with bright acidity for pairing with food.

 

The aging potential is not many years, 6 at best.  A dark-skinned grape, it was used to blend with other varietals to enhance flavor and color of other wine. 

 

The translation of Teroldego means “little sour one”.  I have not had that experience (sour) but it was named a long time ago.

 

As with many things Italian, there is usually a debate on how the name became Teroldego so we won’t spend more time on the name.

 

Here is an example of how being the DOC or DOCG may not be the ideal.  The IGT designation allows more freedom in the use of other varietals in the blend and other aging options. 

 

One example is the clay amphorae.  These large containers are about the size of an average barrel, but made of clay and the wine interacts differently than with concrete or wood.

 

Clay amphorae was one of the earliest forms of wine storage known.

 

 

 

 

Vigneti Delle Dolomiti IGT is a good region making great wines without the confines of stricter, historical laws like a DOC. 

I’m not advocating one or the other, just noting the differences.

In general, Teroldego is a wine that can be rich & full-flavored, and enjoyable right out of the bottle.

 

Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva DOC is 100% Teroldego and must be aged a minimum of 2 years prior to release to the marketplace.

 

It is interesting to note that Australia & Colorado are two other areas that are growing the grape and making wine.

 

 

Manzoni Bianco

 

Here is a wonderful white grape from Trentino/Alto Adige-Sudtirol.  Of the 14.7 million cases of wine produced from this region in 2022, 70% of it was white wine. 

 

The primary white grapes are Chardonnay & Pinot Grigio, not Manzoni Bianco.  I am hoping those percentages will change to more Manzoni Bianco in the future.  And here is the reason why.

 

Manzoni Bianco is the result of the crossing of Pinot Blanc & Riesling grapes. 

 

It is a dry wine with medium body, apple & pear fruit flavors & slight floral aromatics, bright minerality, and a long smooth finish.

 

There are plenty of flavors and aromas going on in this wine.  That is why I like it so much. 

 

It is not one dimensional in any way.  Every sip has some new nuance that keeps you coming back for more wine.

 

My first exposure to the grape was through Elizabetta Foradori.  She bottles this wine and some of it gets to the west. 

 

The wine was a smorgasbord of flavors and aromas that just blew my mind!  It was quite delicious on its own and excellent with different food flavors too!

 

The Pinot Blanc side gives the wine the apple, bright acidity and lovely minerality. 

 

The Riesling side gives it body, minerality, acid, and length of flavors.

 

Just in case you read Riesling and your brain says “it’s sweet”, it is not sweet.  A longer fermentation makes this a wonderfully dry & savory wine.

 

Foradori isn’t the only one making wine with Manzoni Bianco.  There are several producers that are making delicious wine with this varietal.

 

A fun, tasty wine that appeals to the senses.  I hope they amp up the production of this grape so that all the world can enjoy its charms.

 

I think it is so incredibly balanced, yet unveiling its differences without being disjointed.  That is a hard thing to do, too!

 

Manzoni Bianco is mostly grown in the Veneto region, but some of the only 944 acres planted to the grape comes from Trentino-Alto Adige/ Sudtirol region. 

 

Definitely a wine you must try and think about the tasty uniqueness of it. 

 

Take your time and savor the nuances as it opens up and as it warms up in the glass.  This wine is one to sip and savor over time.

 

 

 

Food Suggestions:

Manzoni Bianco is the union of two different types of grapes, and provides many pairing opportunities. 

From fish to Pork, spicy to simple sauces, there is a wide range of great pairing from this wine. 

Use your imagination and experiment with some of your favorite foods.

 

As I mentioned earlier, due to the cooler climate of Trentino-Alto Adige other international grapes do well here.

 

Chardonnay is the most notable.  The Chardonnays in this area tend to me more crisp, higher acid, less butter and oaky, with a lovely leanness that complements food quite nicely.               

 

Pinot Grigio also is much crisper, brighter than down south. 

 

Where the grapes are grown makes a difference in the taste of familiar grapes such as Pinot Grigio

 

Please remember not all Pinot Grigio’s or Chardonnays taste the same.