SICILIAN BIANCO PT. 1-
CATARRATTO & GRILLO
For our next topic we will head to the island of Sicily, the most southern part of Italy. I think we need to do a bit of background on Sicily, to better understand the wines.
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea.
They have an active volcano, Mt. Etna.
Their main source of food comes from the sea.
They have some of the oldest living vines on earth.
Sicily is a melting pot of diverse cultures and influences going back thousands of years. It's a pivotal location for conquering armies. The Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans & Phoenicians all left their influence in Sicilian culture.
Sicily has more land devoted to grape growing than any other wine region in Italy. However, it is the 3rd largest wine producing area in the country.
For many years the wines of Sicily were considered bulk wines, made for quantity and not necessarily for quality. That has changed considerably with quality being brought to the forefront.
Many grape growers worked for the wealthy landowners and were poor. This poverty was a big reason for the mass exodus of Sicilians heading to America to try and make a better life.
In the 1950’s there was redistribution of the farmland to allow more opportunity for others to farm. This paved the way for smaller growers to united into cooperatives and produced affordable wines and made a better living.
The cooperatives were profitable by producing large quantities of cheap wine. Quantity was paramount for profit. The more wine produced, the more money the growers received.
This wine was exported and thus the reputation of Sicilian wines being cheap and easy drinking.
Much of the wine exported today is not under DOC laws. In fact, the largest volume of wine produced is under IGT laws and there is only 1 DOCG in Sicily.
There are still 22 DOC areas on the island.
The Marsala DOC being the most recognized, and Etna DOC becoming the rising star.
There is a Sicily DOC which encompasses the entire island area and allows 35 different grapes, including international varietals like Syrah, Merlot, etc. There can be Late Harvest (sweet) wines and sparkling wines.
They covered all the bases with this DOC.
I speculate the DOC’s were a way to get consumers out of the “bulk wine” mentality that was so popular and give Sicily more respect in the wine world.
It was a good way to charge more and increase profits.
I feel the need to prevent any thoughts that if the wine isn’t DOC or DOCG designated, it isn’t as good as those wines with the DOC or DOCG labels.
Not true.
IGT designated wines still let the consumer know the grapes and the wine originates from Sicily (in this case) and they do something different in the process that isn’t allowed in the laws governing the DOC of the same area.
There are quite a few excellent wines made in Italy that are IGT, and the quality is superb and prices higher than those of the local DOC or DOCG.
I have discussed the wine laws in more detail at the Foundation section in the site. Please refer to it for better understanding. https://www.vinoclarity.com/lesson-Foundation
There are exceptions to the wine rules in every wine producing country in the world.
One of the purposes of the wine laws are to protect the wine region from imposter wines and to protect consumers from getting inconsistent wine.
DOC & DOCG laws are a very good thing.
For someone to say if it doesn’t have a DOC or DOCG, then it’s sub-par wine, would wrong.
We will certainly be discussing Sicilian wines in several writings besides this one as there are some interesting and fun wines here. If you are fan of eating fish, Sicily would be cuisine heaven for you
Terre Siciliane Bianco
Sicilian Bianco will vary from region to region. If you have to know what the grapes are in the wine, you could get quite frustrated with Sicilian Bianco or Rosso. There isn't much information about the wine on a label either.
Granted, if you have knowledgeable people at you local wine store or favorite restaurant, you could get some good answers to the make up (grapes) of the wine.
In my research on Bianco, I saw many different combinations of grapes. It seemed Chardonnay was in many of the blends. It makes for fun and interesting wines.
I think this fact sends a message to all of us that consume the Sicilian Biancos. The strength of these wines doesn't rely on a particular grape to set a quality standard.
All this variety of native & international grapes makes Sicilian Bianco so interesting & exciting!
I am going to concentrate on a few of the main native grapes to lay a foundation. We will talk about two of them now and a few more another time.
We will certainly be discussing Sicilian wines in several writings. If you are fan of eating fish, Sicily would be cuisine heaven for you.
In some ways, winemaking in Sicily is like "anything goes" !
When there are less restrictions on grape allowances, that generates a lot of creativity.
But whatever they do, it works!
The wines are so delicious!
Catarratto-
One of the major white grapes in Sicily is Catarratto. Most (not all) of the white wine DOC’s on the island probably have Catarratto as the main grape.
Chances are good your Sicilian “Bianco” is mostly Catarratto.
Marsala can also be made from Catarratto.
Catarratto is unique to Sicily. The wines are mostly medium-bodied, pale colored, citrus, balanced and a smooth, non-tannic finish.
Generally lighter in alcohol to not overpower foods. Some say a “bitter” finish but I don’t agree with that. More bitter than Pinot Grigio, I would agree.
An excellent accompaniment to fish, seafood, shellfish.
I don’t feel Catarratto has as much character as Grillo or Inzolia but it a great base for blending with other grapes.
Easy drinking, balanced acidity and a good blending wine. Good versatility but not the star of the “Bianco” blend.
There are sparkling versions and sweeter options produced too.
One particular area, Alcamo DOC, is a hilly region covered in grape vines. The Catarratto grape is dominant.
There are producers making some high quality wines utilizing more modern approaches in the wine making. Here are some examples.
-- The use of oak is a big influence on this grape. It creates a richer, more complex wine.
-- Parceling individual vineyards to highlight the nuances of the terroir and vinifying each plot separately. This allows better blending options and more character in the wine.
-- Lengthy “lees” (the dead yeast from fermentation) contact with the aging wine imparts some richness & creaminess.
But there are different areas with different recipes for making their regional wine. Plus each winery has their own way of how the wine should be.
Grillo-
Grillo is another grape grown primarily in Sicily and an ingredient in many of the “bianco” wines from the island. Grillo was created from the crossing of Catarratto & Zibibbo grapes.
Grillo is a white grape with a similar flavor profile to Sauvignon Blanc. My experience with Grillo has been a tasty experience. What I have tasted was a medium-bodied, citrus, crisp and herbal.
When I compare it to Sauvignon Blanc please don’t think of SB from New Zealand’s Marlborough region. The dominant grapefruit flavors of New Zealand SB are not prominent in the Grillo’s of Sicily.
I would compare them more to the French style wines that tend to be more herbal and mineral, like Sancerre.
Again, great wine with fish, shellfish & seafood because it’s crisp & savory. It’s very refreshing on a hot day!
Remember now, the Sicilian white blends (bianco) can be several different grapes, but generally, Grillo is one of the primary varietals in the mix.
Grillo’s popularity as a varietal bottling is increasing. Good news to the consumer. Years ago, it was the grape grown to make Marsala. Seems like a great example of an industry pivoting their business.
One winery in Sicily I think does a great job producing great wines at great values is the Tasca d’Almerita. There is a long history with the family in Sicily and they have 4 estates producing a variety of wines.
This gives you an idea of the interest in exploring different nuances to Grillo and the ways in which it changes due to soils, and processes.
Finally, it is difficult to look at a Sicilian wine label and know enough detail to know what you are getting. Labels don’t always say what the blend of grapes are in the wine, or time in oak or on the “lees”.
My only advice is two-fold. You can buy the wine at a wine store with knowledgeable people to let you know those details.
Most wineries do produce tech sheets with the data on how the wine was made that year. The retailer should be able to know or access that information for you.
The second thing is this; generally the cost of the wine is in direct correlation to the effort spent making the wine.
You get what you pay for.
Aging in oak, utilizing the lees and older vines are factors in the quality and price of wine.
A $30 Grillo will probably be richer, more complex than the $15 bottle. There are always exceptions, but it is a general rule I use in my purchasing.
